After attaching the face, cut the back out of 1 / 4 ” plywood then glue and staple it on. For paint grade work, I will shoot about three nails evenly spaced through the face frame and into each shelf just for extra hold until the glue dries. Working quickly within the glue’s open time, clamp the frame to the carcass at each pocket hole location, and proceed to screwing the frame down. If building a stain grade door, clamp both sides and every rail accordingly to avoid exposed nail holes. I reinforce the top and bottom of the bookcase for the hardware with another layer of plywood attached with glue and staples. Continue these steps until the case is assembled. I do this even on stain grade shelves as this portion is hidden until the door is opened. Next, place glue in each dado, insert the shelves and shoot 1 3/ 8” staples into them from the outside. Cut all of your shelves to the same length and inspect them for any discrepancies. 1 7/ 8” for both outside reveals and another 3/ 4” for the material thickness of the sides left over after your dadoes. To find the width of your shelves, you will subtract 2 5/ 8” from your frame width. These will hold the frame to the case much better than glue alone. Once all of your dadoes are plowed, drill pocket holes between them on the opposite face of each case side. I find that if you do not plow all the way through the jig on the outside of the cut, your dust collection will work substantially better as this creates a dam of sorts to prevent the debris from flying all over the room. Make your first dado in a piece of scrap so that you will have a referencing mark on both sides of the work. The face frame is attached to the case with pocket hole joinery (pockets on the exterior of the case).
So for both in- and out-swing doors, I use what’s called a pivot hinge.ġ1. Even though the tendency to sag can be mitigated some with a caster on the strike side, eventually those hinges will become loose and falter.
Fo r an in-swing door, you can use regular door hinges placed on the back of the case but I don’t recommend it. The secret to making a bookcase door function is in the hinges. Whether a person wants to hide a safe, have a safe room or just find a creative way to hide a utility room, a bookcase door is a fairly easy way to go about doing it. As an adult, their mystique is still appealing, though having built several of them now their functionality is no longer a mystery to me. Growing up, my mind would race with possibilities, as I’d watch someone unlock a bookcase by tilting a book or some other secretive method on television. The alluring nature of secret rooms has captivated my imagination for as long as I can remember. Turn a closet into a hiding place with a basic bookcase, trimmed to match the room.
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